I recently received a message from an ex who lives in the south of England. She had been watching the BBC’s One Show on a Tuesday evening when they aired a feature about the black guillemots that nest in the drain pipes in the sea walls along Oban’s Esplanade. The birds are extremely striking with their black and white plumage and shiny red feet, looking almost as though they are stepping out to a gala ball wearing their finest tuxedo. They are quite tame little creatures, and I’ll often see them sitting in pairs along the edge of the pavement by the sea, just a few feet away from some people who have shoved an iPhone in their beaks. My ex observed in her message that she didn’t notice me strutting about the place in the video, which was probably a good thing, even if I wouldn’t look out of place amongst a flock of guillemots.
It was interesting that she even thought to contact me about the feature considering that when we were together nigh upon ten years ago she had a dreadful fear of birds. I have never seen anything like it, before or since. She would shriek if a bird so much as flapped its wing within a couple of metres of her, and you could forget about walking through a park or a square with this girl. I always hated how the spectacle made me look, especially when she would usually grab for my elbow and seek protection behind my not particularly intimidating torso, as though I could do something to warn off the birds. I mean, really, what am I going to do about a flock of pigeons? Birds are a law unto themselves. I responded to the text the only way I knew how, commenting that “it turns out Guillemots are not only a semi-popular English musical act from the early noughties, they are also a very lovely sea bird.” I haven’t heard from her since, and I suspect that there can no longer be any mystery as to why we are not together.
The black guillemots are most commonly seen early in the morning, and I had an unexpected opportunity to view them after our latest album club meeting on the weekend after they had been featured on television. The gathering was more of a meeting about the club itself than it was any one album and most of the group left at a reasonable hour, though the Plant Doctor and I found a kindred spirit in our host’s husband and the three of us sat drinking beer and listening to music until six o’clock on Sunday morning. We would probably have stayed out in the gazebo even longer if the family didn’t have a dog that needed walking, and besides, we had surely peaked around dawn when we were belting out Elbow’s One Day Like This. I struggled to reason in my mind how it was possible that I could go home from the pub any other weekend and fall asleep on the couch leaving a quarter-drunk can of Tennent’s to go flat, and yet here I was walking away from an all-night drinking session, when the daylight appeared even brighter than it was when we had started thirteen hours earlier.
The Plant Doctor and I took what we both agreed was the best walk around the perimeter of the North Pier we had taken together. From the green on Corran Esplanade we saw that the bay was bathed in an exquisite blue, with only the tops of Mull in the distance holding what appeared to be a wizard’s wisp of clouds. There was serene stillness about the place, the only sound heard was the gentle hum that comes with being a certain level of drunk. Indeed, the only people who seem to come out at six o’clock on a Sunday morning are the dog walkers and drunkards. A lone Innis & Gunn pint glass sat on a bench in front of the Columba Hotel, far from where it belonged, while berthed at the marina was a boat which had a mast that was nearly as tall as the sky. I liked to think that the top of it had pricked a hole in the atmosphere and let the sunlight in. Out in the bay, the guillemots had emerged from the drainpipes much like the way we had left the sewers of our drunken debauchery and dared to face the day, although they were handling it much better than we were. They looked elegant and graceful atop the surface of the water, all the things we weren’t. It was easy to see why the BBC had filmed a report about them. I took a photograph which I intended on sending to my ex but thought better of it after I had been to bed.
June marked the start of the European football Championships – Euro 2020 – which had been delayed by a year due to the pandemic. Ordinarily these bi-annual international football tournaments are simply an excuse to spend more time in the pub, with as many as two or three televised games a day, but this year Scotland are competing for the first time in my adult life – since the World Cup in 1998 – and there is a great deal of excitement around it. I remember the thrill of rushing home from school to watch Scotland lose to Brazil in the opening match of that last tournament, the hype surrounding the game against England at Euro ‘96 where we eventually lost to one of the most famous goals of its generation, and I have vague recollections of wondering where Costa Rica even is after we were defeated by them in the 1990 World Cup. All of my memories are of Scotland losing, but at least this time I will be old enough to drink.
One of the best things about these month-long festivals of football is that the more frequent visits to the bar often present an opportunity to meet people who you otherwise might not end up talking to, such as the Swiss student lawyer who was in favour of using spinach as a pizza topping that I spoke to for ninety minutes after her country had played in the World Cup three years ago. I’m fairly sure that my brother first fell out with Brexit Guy during that same competition. It would be different for the European Championships, however, with the restrictions that are still in place meaning that bars are extremely limited in the number of patrons they can have in at one time and everyone has to be seated at their own tables. You can no longer just turn up in time for the national anthems and find a space at the bar to stand and watch the game; a night in the pub requires precise planning and a little bit of luck.
Before the opening match, the Plant Doctor, my brother and I arrived in Aulay’s at least an hour earlier than we usually would in order to secure a table so that we could watch Italy playing Turkey. In time we were joined by a wandering hotelier who we have seen around the bars many times in the past. He asked if he could sit with us since there were no other tables available and he would otherwise be asked to leave, and we were happy to have another person to tell our stupid jokes to.
The Wandering Hotelier had fluffy balls of white hair that resembled the clouds we had seen clinging to the peak of Mull at six o’clock the previous Sunday morning, and it was obvious that he would have made an excellent Santa Claus back in the days before he had lost all the weight. He told us that his small guest house hasn’t been as busy as he was hoping since the season started and blamed it on the popularity of Airbnb rental properties, which seems to be a common complaint in the town these days. It was interesting to hear about the different ways he and his wife have to run their business during these unusual times. We learned that he can no longer show his guests to their bedrooms, instead “I point them upstairs and tell them that they’re in room number three.” He isn’t allowed to cook breakfast for them and now hangs a package on the door handle in the morning. I found this amazing. In my mind’s eye, all I could see was the vision of a confused elderly couple wandering the upstairs corridor of a small guest house on the west of Scotland clutching their complimentary breakfast bag which contained a banana and some French pastries, eternally unable to leave.
Sometime during the second-half a couple of young ladies who we were vaguely familiar with received a knockback from the bar staff since there were no tables left. We asked the barman if there was a limit to the number of people who could sit together, and when he told us it was eight we invited the women to join us. We could see that they really had to think about it, but eventually they concluded that it was better to get their drink and put up with our shit than to not get their last drink of the night at all. The four of us had been discussing who we each thought would win the tournament, and we extended this question to our new tablemates. They both said emphatically that it would be Scotland, as though it was the stupidest question we could have asked, and my brother somehow convinced one of them to put their money where their mouth is and bet £10 on Scotland winning Euro 2020. She had to lift the strict deposit limits she had set on her online gambling account to place the wager, and when she finally did she made it an “each way” bet, which seemed to make it a better idea. I asked the second girl, who works in one of the hardware stores in town, what type of hammer she would recommend if I was in the market for tools. I don’t think I have seen anyone drink a glass of vodka and cranberry juice as quickly as those two did.
By the time the second Friday of the tournament came around, Scotland had already lost their first game to the Czech Republic and were in a precarious position in the group. Our second game in the competition was against England, and nobody was giving Scotland a chance. According to the experts it was simply a matter of how many goals England were going to win by. Nevertheless, we packed into Aulay’s as much as anyone can pack into anything these days, and it’s amazing how holding a pint of Tennent’s Lager can make you believe that anything is possible. For some of us, there wasn’t as much trepidation about the game as there was about being in a pub at all, since cases of Coronavirus had been increasing rapidly in Oban during the week. As far as we saw it, we were in just about the safest place we could be since the clientele of Aulay’s is usually so old that most people there would have been double jagged anyway.
One of the biggest talking points prior to kick-off, besides team selection and tactics, was the strategy of breaking the seal and when to go to the toilet. It’s a delicate matter when watching a game of football, since you don’t want to go too early and let the flow of beer know that there is an easy way out, but you also want to beat the crowds and ensure that you see all of the game. The Plant Doctor went early, around forty minutes before kick-off, which I felt was a risky move since he would surely need to go again before the match began. I held on until just before the anthems were played, following my usual trusted gameplan. Whilst I was standing at the urinal, feeling pretty chuffed with my success, the man who was finishing up approached the wash hand basin, though you could tell that it was all for show. He placed his hand under the sensor long enough for it to release a sprinkle of water, barely enough to water a plant. I think he used it to slick back his hair more than for any hygienic purposes, and he spent more time at the hand dryer. It’s times like these where I really wonder if two vaccines will be enough.
People were being turned away from the bar all night, and I was thankful that the Plant Doctor had saved me a seat at six o’clock. Shortly after the game kicked off I noticed that the two men who had been sitting at the table which is positioned beneath the television for at least two hours got up and left. It is hard to believe that they weren’t interested in watching the football, because everyone was wanting to see Scotland versus England, which could only mean that after having occupied the spot for the entire night, they realised when the match began that they were in the only seat in the entire pub where they couldn’t see the television. Imagine having that kind of luck.
As well as being in the company of two Aulay’s barmen and the Wandering Hotelier, the Plant Doctor and I watched the football with the two Geordie’s – Pete and Dave. These are two guys who are from roughly the same neck of the woods and who had never met each other until they came from North East England to the west of Scotland, and more specifically to Aulay’s Bar, where they have since formed the Geordie community of the pub. They had been looking forward to this game as much as the rest of us, and naturally, they were supporting their home nation as opposed to their adopted one. There was some good-humoured banter between us all, which made the occasion that bit more fun. The two Geordies were a bit more vocal about things as the match progressed, which seemed to offend one man in particular who was further back in the bar. He would occasionally holler out: “fuck off you English cunts” and at times seemed to be more interested in being anti-English than pro-Scottish.
The Geordies never rose to the bait and continued to watch the game, but a couple of us at the table grew tired of it. Peter and I turned and asked the guy to calm down and be more respectful of the fact that people have their own nations to support, not to mention the fact that the Geordies drink in Aulay’s all the time whereas this guy was presumably only there because he couldn’t get in anywhere else. This fellow was big, broad and bearded, and he seemed to take exception to our intervention, turning his anger onto me.
“I’ll bite your nose off!”
I’d heard of biting your own nose off to spite your face, but never biting somebody else’s nose off. I could maybe understand it if he had threatened to punch my lights out, break my glasses or perform almost any other act of violence, but what would he even do with my nose once he had bitten it off? I can’t imagine that it’s the sort of thing a person makes a habit out of. I told him that it was the most bizarre threat I had ever heard, especially during a game of football, although with hindsight I am not sure why I added the stipulation about the football. It’s a bizarre threat to be issuing in any circumstance. Although the xenophobic outbursts ceased, it was plain to see that Geordie Pete was a lot more withdrawn for the remainder of the game, which I felt sad about. The big, broad and bearded bloke came over to me and apologised at full-time, blaming “football fever”, but it wasn’t me who he owed an apology.
Scotland played as well as I had ever seen them play in a game of football, and while everybody was delighted with the unlikely 0-0 final score which kept us in the tournament, there was a tiny part within us that was disappointed we hadn’t actually won. Already thoughts were turning to the next match against Croatia on Tuesday, and the permutations that could have us qualifying for the knockout round of a tournament for the first time, as well as the permutations that would be needed to get us into a pub to see it.
After the disappointment of Monday’s defeat to the Czech Republic, where waiting 23 years just to get a massive kick in the baws at the end of it seemed to me to be similar to what it would be like to finally have a woman show an interest in me only to find that she is as afraid of my jokes as she is of birds, things were suddenly very different on Friday. Scotland had given us hope again. When the pub closed at 11 pm, the Plant Doctor and I found ourselves drinking bottles of Budweiser in the flat which belongs to the podcasting phycologist and the girl with the scarf until five o’clock in the morning. On this occasion there was no silence like there was a couple of weeks earlier as I walked home, not even a gentle drunken hum; the entire country was still rocking.
2 thoughts on “23 Years”
Now, that is pillow talk!! As ever, giggling along (hopefully I’m meant to do that!) love your solidly Scottish observations. Thinking of writing a few on my local now too! 😂⚽️ ps: go Scotland! What a match Friday was.
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Thank you for reading, and for your kind words. It would be interesting to read about the differences between your Borders local and mine. They truly are a gold mine for observation.
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